SKU: 13029855392

Gold Quartz Ladies Ring "Orocal" RL725Q Genuine Hand Crafted Jewelry - 14K Gold Casting

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Description

Gold Quartz Ladies Ring "Orocal" RL725Q Genuine Hand Crafted Jewelry - 14K Gold CastingGold Quartz Ring "Orocal" RL725Q Genuine Hand Crafted Jewelry One of a Kind 14k Yellow Gold Casting Approx. " If this is not in Stock our Jeweler will make it in 4 6 weeks" Specs and Dimensions: Length Width Quartz Stone Size 6x4 mm Oval Diamonds R stands for Ring, L for Ladies, M Stands for Men and Q stands for the Quartz E Stands for Earrings, and P stands for Pendants, and D stands for Diamonds With This Stunning Gold Quartz Ring you will receive a

Gold Quartz Ring "Orocal" RL725Q Genuine Hand Crafted Jewelry - One of a Kind - 14k Yellow Gold Casting - Approx.

" If this is not in Stock our Jeweler will make it in 4-6 weeks"

Specs and Dimensions: Length/Width -

Quartz Stone Size - 6x4 mm - Oval

Diamonds -

-

R stands for Ring, L for Ladies, M Stands for Men and Q stands for the Quartz / E Stands for Earrings, and P stands for Pendants, and D stands for Diamonds

With This Stunning Gold Quartz Ring you will receive a certificate of authenticity each of these Nuggets or Quartz. Are Gold Quartz is hand cut to fit the design, then we use 6 different wheels to produce the shine. Each nugget is Inlaid in like a puzzle Solder in by the Jeweler. The Casting is 14K Yellow Gold.

ATTENTION:

Attention: " You Will Receive A Similar Piece " All My Specials I picture 1 time and They are Pre Made and Built by the Master Jewelers at Orocal Manufacture the #1 Natural Gold Company In the World. The Reason why I do this is to keep the Cost Low By Only Picturing this Item 1 Time I can keep restocking. If you have any questions or concerns about this process feel free to contact me. Check out the Gold Quartz Guide Below to learn more about this rare beautiful stone. Message us if you request a specific size before shipping, Or add it in the notes at check out. Gold Quartz is a durable stone, in fact it is a 7 out of 10 on the Hardness scale. All jewelry is backed by the Manufacturer. All chains that come with piece are free with purchase and gold plated for display only , we do not provide 14k chains.

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Gold Quartz Guide:

What is it? Millions of years ago, gold was formed in quartsz deposits by hydro-thermal pressure, deep within the earth. Gold remaining in these deposits is called Gold Bearing Quartz or Gold Quartz for short. It is extremely rare, accounting for less than 1/20th of 1% of all gold found annually.

Where is it Found? Gold Quartz is found in underground hard rock mines in the same areas where gold nuggets are found. In Alaska, it was first discovered in 1880 in the town Juneau. Regions of Canada, California, and Australia are also well known for Gold Quartz.

Grading: Like other precious gemstones, Gold Quartz comes in different grades. Orocal is well know for having the highest quality authentic Gold Quartz with spectacular patterns of Gold. We grade the quartz on a few different factors being how white the stone is. The brightness of the white increases the value along with the vein of gold. The actual pattern and placement of the exquisite gold vein. In fact that vein is very pure around 23% purity.

Authenticity: Some Stores sell man-made imitation gold quartz which is fragile and frail. This leads consumers to believe its natural when it clearly is not. When buying from me you know its authentic coming directly from Orocal the source. We offer a 110% money back Guarantee card which is called are certificate of Authenticity.

 

GOLD NUGGET GUIDE :

What is a Natural Gold Nugget? It is a piece of gold that broke out of quartz deposits within the earth when erosion took place. It also goes by the name Placer Gold and each piece is a one of a kind with no two being exactly alike.

· Where can they be found? Wherever the effects of erosion took place. That would include rivers, streams, ancient dried up river channels and underground riverbeds.

· How pure are they? Gold nuggets range from 65 to 95 fine 16-23KT gold and can have other mineral content such as silver and copper mixed in with it.

· What sizes do they come in? Gold Nuggets come in all sizes, the smaller one range in sizes from 1 millimeter up to 6 and is often referred to as flakes. Bigger flakes are called nuggets and have been found as large as 2500 ounces although almost all nuggets bigger than 300 ounces were melted.

· How Are Natural Gold Nuggets found? They can be found in rivers and streams using a gold pan or suction dredges that act like an underground vacuum cleaner. Larger operations use large machinery that dig up huge sections of dirt weighing several tons and run it through machines that separate the gold from the dirt. Nuggets are also found using a metal detector.

· How are they weighed? They are weighed by the troy ounces. 12 ounces = one pound which differs from weight which is 16 ounces to the pound. The troy ounces are broke up into 20-penny weight to the ounces and use the symbol DWT or by the grams which has 31.1 to the ounces. The larger the nugget the more rare and valuable they are. A one-ounce nugget is now considered as rare as a five-carat diamond. (How many of those do you own?)

· Why are some real bright and others dull? Because it was formed underground in quartz deposit you often find quartz mixed in with it. When they broke off into the rivers and streams they tumbled against the sand and gravel, which gave the nuggets, it?s texture but dulled it. They can be cleaned in different solutions, and then tumbled in different media to give it the shine.

· What do we mean by My Authentic Natural Gold Nuggets under 4 grams come from two main sources. One is located near Dawson in the Yukon Territory. The second is Atlin, BC Canada about 50 miles as the crow flies from Skagway, Alaska. Skagway was where the miners of the 1898 Klondike gold rush traveled through to reach the gold fields. This is the reason I describe them as Alaskan Yukon BC Nuggets., Genuine, Natural Gold Nuggets

Not all Gold nuggets are natural, some people man-make them by taking smaller gold flakes melting them and casting them into the shape of a nugget. Make sure to ask if they are genuine natural gold nuggets as found by the miners and come with a certificate of authenticity.

* All Nuggets are Pictured or Partially Pictured with a U.S. Quarter to give you an idea of Size Proportion

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Karat Definition and Guide:

The karat system is used to measure the amount of pure gold found in solid gold jewelry. In the US, numbers are associated with the percentage of pure gold in a piece.

Solid Gold vs. Pure Gold

The phrase "solid gold jewelry" is a misnomer because, most times, this jewelry is not made up of solid gold. This term references jewelry that has a gold alloy throughout the entire piece.

On the other hand, the phrase "pure gold jewelry" is used to describe jewelry that is made up entirely of gold with little to no alloys present.

How a Gold Alloy is Formed

A portion of the gold is mixed with different alloys or metals, which creates a specific formula. Each gold color, like white gold or rose gold, uses a different combination of alloys.

Karat Used in Costume Jewelry

The term karat is also used on gold filled and gold plated jewelry. Even though these pieces are not solid gold, the gold portion of the jewelry has a certain percentage of pure gold designated through karats.

Expert Tip: If your piece of jewelry is marked 14KGF or 10KGF, that is a common indication that the item is gold filled and is not solid gold. However, the marking 14KP or 14KP does not necessarily mean gold plated. It also can stand for 14K gold plumb, which is solid gold.

If your piece of jewelry has a P in the marking, be sure to have the gold tested.

Ranges of Karat Values

  • 24 karat (24K) gold is pure gold.
  • 18 karat (18K) gold contains 18 parts gold and 6 parts another metal or metals, making it 75% gold.
  • 14 karat (14K) gold contains 14 parts gold and 10 parts another metal or metals, making it 58.3% gold.
  • 10 karat (10K) gold contains 10 parts gold and 14 parts another metal or metals, making it 41.7% gold. 10k gold is the minimum karat designation that can still be called gold in the US.

These values are primarily used on gold from the Unites States. You will see a lot of 22k gold and 9k gold in other countries. Gold jewelry from other countries may have an entirely different set of gold markings they use.

Karat vs. Carat

The term carat, spelled with a "c," is often confused with the term karat. They are both pronounced the same, but carat refers to the weight of a gemstone. You could have a 1.5 carat diamond set in an 18 karat gold setting.

Shipping Notes
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Exchange/Return Notes
  • We offer a 30-day return/exchange service after receiving.
  • Final sale items are not eligible for returns or exchanges.
  • To process your return/exchange, please contact us at [email protected]
  • Please click here for more details>>> Return & Exchange Policy
SKU: 13029855392

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4.6 ★★★★★
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Verified Purchase
Ricky stein
San Leandro, US
★★★★★ 1
Don’t buy
Set name: K2 SE Combo, Set name: K2 SE Combo
This printer is pretty awesome. Here is the biggest catch to it. We have spent hundreds of dollars on the app and or validating what we could buy between buying filament and everything else. This thing does not connect properly. It is very technical if you are not smart. This is a terrible thing to buy. I’m a very educated person and so are the other 3 to 4 people in my household that have all tried to use this thing it will not let you change individuals to print off it and even the amount of money you spend to buy credit credits and or other items that you want to purchase in the store do not print properly. This sucks don’t buy it even though this equipment is awesome. This is the worst thing I wish I’d never bought. I do not say this in the test and or ignorance I have studied. I have read up. I’ve looked at forums. I’ve been on Reddit. Everyone says this creatality is extremely difficult and we have definitely found this out firsthand. I would definitely return this, but I think my window has closed. It sucks when you buy a product and you have it for like 2 to 3 weeks before you get to use it but then your window to return it is closed. The app does not match what is online and or if you have more than one person that wants to print, you cannot share unless the other person is logged out and even if the person is logged out, it does not always match the same, so for example, I have tons of money and credit on my account, but it will not let me print out certain apps and or creations then it tells me that it will work on our item that we have purchased, but then it’ll say it does not work. It will not print. 3-D printer is a scam. It sucks. It has great potential but this is not the one for you. Don’t waste your money too much money.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on February 18, 2026
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Verified Purchase
Elton Smith
Phoenix, US
★★★★★ 5
Forget Adventurer 5M , This is the true and easy to use beginner machine
Set name: Ender 3 V3 SE
This is my 3rd 3d printer. Once I spent about 45 minutes assembling it has been printing nonstop since the amazon driver dropped it off, these are the best for reliability and perfect for hobbyists. It is not the quickest machine out there, but it makes up for it with a quality print good price as well.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 25, 2026
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Verified Purchase
hearmeout
Chelsea, US
★★★★★ 4
One - Month Review
Set name: Ender 3 V3 SE, Set name: Ender 3 V3 SE
First - I wrote a out of the box review - I do not know if this review will replace the old review or compliment it. Just in case this review replaces the old review - I will repeat a few of the important points from the previous review. I must also say it helps a great deal if you are already familiar with Ender because about 80% or more of the machine is built the same way as the older models. If this is your first Ender - read the instructions and check to make sure you have all the parts. Placing the parts where you can easily tear open the bags and not having to search for a part cuts down the assembly time. While the assembled printer takes up a small footprint - give yourself room to work. This is my 3rd printer - my first one I made from scratch. It took about 2 weeks to get it assembled and another two weeks to get it to print properly. Most of that time was spent modifying the Martin software so it would run my machine! My second one was an Ender V1. It took me about 90 minutes to assemble and about 30 minutes to get it to work. Over the years - I modified it to the point it was virtually impossible to tell the difference between it and a V3. I replaced it because a least one of the motors was going bad and I did not want to do the repairs. I picked this printer for 3 reasons 1) it was on sale, 2) I am now wheelchair bound and needed a printer that did not require too much assembly, and 3) I had worked with Ender before and knew how they worked. I was able to keep some of the old parts from the old machine (but threw most away). Everything was packaged well, but the small parts are in plastic bags that you have to tear or cut open - so be careful you do not lose any parts! There are only three parts to be assembled. They are the base, the frame, and the screen. I had no trouble getting the machine together - did have some trouble getting it to work. I was never able to reach customer service which ranged between "Who are you Kidding?" and "Did you really expect any?" I did some internet searching (there is lots of stuff out there - many are good YouTube videos). I found I needed to do an update - it got a bit complicated here. Part of the update was done using the hidden slot on the LEFT side of the removable screen and part was done using a SD card on the LEFT side of the Unit. (Ender does NOT tell you this on their website!). I was already angry when I tried their slicer and it did NOT work - after not being able to get customer service again. I deleted their slicer and used my Cura. After doing a few prints using Cura (which works fine) a couple days later, I reinstalled their slicer and did some troubleshooting - I found I had a setting wrong. I use both Cura and their slicer now because of the differences. Each one has some features the other one lacks. One example: The Cura has a large number of preset configurations, and it is easy to save a custom configuration. The Creality titles the g-code with a filename that includes the estimate print time. I tried customer service and actually someone! They did give me the manual settings for generic Pla - when I asked how to save those settings they send me to a useless link. I will research how to save one day - but will use my Cura for generic pla until then. What I like about the machine. 1} While it is nosier (a trade-off for higher speed) - it is still much quieter than the original Ender I had before modifications. 2)The new ribbon and print head are a big improvement. The filament is easier to change, and you can easily make prints with different colors! I do not miss the bowden tube and individual wires at all! 3) I like to put my prints on a card. The old machine used a micro-SD card - and I quicky bought an adapter! The new machine takes regular SD cards and no adapter is needed! 4) I really like the automatic leveling feature. There have been times I have spent hours getting my manual table set the way I wanted. So far - it has worked great. I have only made about 50 prints - so I cannot tell you how reliable it is in long term use. 5) The quality of prints is much better than my old machine. I am not sure whether this due to being a better machine or the stepper motor needing replacement. What I do not like: 1) The SD card has to be put into its slot upside down. 2) The controls and the SD card slot are all on the left side of the printer. I think putting the computer connection and the SD card would have been much better on the front of the machine. 3) Updating is like putting up a Christmas tree. The firmware is done with a hidden C connector on the left side of the detachable screen (this is like putting up a Christmas tree). Fine details on display etc. are put in using the SD card (this is like putting the lights on the tree). Once you figure out what goes where - it is the easiest printer to update I have had. 4. This one is a mixed bag. I do not give their customer service good marks - but the fact I found solutions on the internet was a good thing.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 5, 2026
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Verified Purchase
Sid Hubbs
Bozeman, US
★★★★★ 5
The K2 SE is a great entry level printer. Don't let the naysayers get you down!
Set name: K2 SE
I bought the K2 SE because it was inexpensive and I wanted to get into 3D printing. I had a Creality laser engraver that worked well, so I figured I'd go with the brand I knew. I bought the additional enclosure because I was planning to use this in the garage where my wood shop is, and I wanted to keep some dust out. I have been pushing this thing pretty hard for three months now and it has not so much as looked at me cross eyed. It takes everything I throw at it. The quality seems to be there, as nothing is wearing out. I have a little superlube oil and grease to keep up the maintenance, and I suspect any failures people report have been on unmaintained machines. If you're the type that drives your car without changing the oil, 3D printing is not for you. A quick note on 3D printing, for the uninitiated. When you see the one and two star reviews for the K2 SE, make sure you read why the reviewer is leaving the low rating. "Doesn't come with filament" - if you're not buying a combo with filament, none of the printers on the market come with filament. "Makes bubbles and pops when printing" - this is wet filament and not the fault of the printer (dry your filament). 3D printing is not a set it and forget it proposition, at least not at first. It requires a little skill (that can be built), a little knowledge (the U of Tube), and a little patience while you learn how to use the machine. Now for the machine itself... The print quality surprised me as a first time 3D printer user. I have purchased 3D printed items in the past and the lines were not something that impressed me. The K2 SE prints pretty much the same quality as the higher end Bambu Labs printers. The speed is all I could ask for, and I have fed this thing all kinds of PLA, PETG and TPU from Creality, Sunlu, Polymaker and AnyCubic without a problem. Any issues I have had have been the fault of the operator (me) not knowing I had to dry PETG before I use it. I have a Creality filament dryer now and dry my PETG right out of the package, then store it in an airtight container with dessicant. I have two printers running dried PETG sitting behind me right now and they're doing great. If I have a single complaint about the K2 SE, it's the bed size. At 215 x 220 it's smaller than the industry "standard" of 256 x 256, and if you get some of the larger prints that are designed for a "standard" sized printer, they won't fit the build plate. But I knew that coming into this, because they advertise the size right up front. Overall, I'm happy with the K2 SE. It was an excellent entry level printer and I have learned a lot from using it. I may even buy a second to add to my growing farm.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 20, 2026
R
Verified Purchase
ReluctantConsumer
Birmingham, US
★★★★★ 5
Creality K1 SE - Prints great with stock settings - needs a side spool mount
Set name: K2 SE, Set name: K2 SE
I bought the Creality K1 SE a little over a week ago. I had an Ender 3 S1 before this printer. The K1 SE is so, so much easier to print with right out of the box! I definitely recommend it. It's a good way to get the improvements that were built into Creality's K1C, but at a nicer price. Plus, you can install your own version of Klipper if you want. I've printed 10 or so things in PLA and PETG, and I haven't had any failed prints. The automatic bed leveling has just worked. I have not had any problems with bed adhesion. On the Ender 3 S1, I only used a textured PEI plate, but the smooth build plate on the K1 SE works fine. The extruder cooling fan also seems ok for what I've printed so far. I printed an overhang test and the 75 degree overhang looks fine, but it had trouble at 80 degrees. The bridging test looked ok. (The longest bridge was only 25 mm on that test however.) I've put the printer in a soft-sided enclosure that I had used for my old Ender 3 S1. (It's easy to find similar encolsures.) The LEDs on the K1 SE are bright enough to see inside which is something that I was concerned about before I purchased. However, this enclosure makes it difficult to access the back of the printer where the filament spool is mounted, so I designed a mount that clamps onto the side-bar - see the pictures. The files are on Printables - "Creality K1 SE Side Spool Mount".
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on January 21, 2025

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